solved the problem bass boosted

No Bass Boost option in Windows 11

1] check for a warning sign in the device manager, 2] roll back your audio device driver, 3] install another version of your audio device driver, 4] re-configure your audio device, 5] use third-party audio equalizer software, no bass after windows update, how do i enable bass boost in windows 11, nishantgola@twc.

(SOLVED) Too Much Bass In My Headphones

You just purchased a new set of headphones and realized that the bass is very powerful – too powerful for your liking. This is a common problem with Bose, Audio Technica, Shure, Presonus, and Beats headphones especially.

Some of these headphones exaggerate your bass to rather ridiculous levels. In this article, we will show you how you can solve this issue of too much bass in your headphones. 

1. Adjust The Equalizer Settings

Whether you are using your headphones on a smartphone, Windows computer, MAC computer, or another device, adjusting the equalizer settings is a good way to reduce bass in your headphones.

Check for audio manager software or just equalizer software. 

EQ allows you to boost or cut the sound in multiple frequency bands. In other words, you can turn down the bass and turn up the mids or vice versa.

It’s similar to the bass and treble knobs on an old stereo. Just check for the slider that you can use to adjust the bass.

On A Computer: To get a complete set of options, you can download EQ software for your device that will allow you to change bass levels. 

On A Smartphone: With a smartphone, you can download EQ apps for Android and possibly iOS . However, please note that these only apps will only modify a running audio app, so you have to run them each time you’re listening. If you want a fixed setting, you need to root your phone.

What Setting Should You Adjust?

Try setting the treble and bass if the music player has this, or use a button that is a simple version of the equalizer for high and low bass.

If this is not in the system, you could return the headset or hand it to a buddy and look for another set.

2. Get A Hardware Equalizer

If you don’t want to download any software if you want to reduce bass on multiple devices, you can purchase a hardware equalizer. 

• Input Impedance: 47k
• Output Impedance: 47 ohms
• Frequency Response: 5Hz to 154kHz

These dedicated EQ units are for consumer audio and include an auto-setting function that would profile your listening room and make the necessary adjustments.

This means, that even if your headphones are designed to deliver heavy bass, the EQ will modify the same.

3. Turn Off Bass Boost

Bass boost is as its name suggests an option to increase the bass output from your headphones. Turning off this option will help to reduce and level out the bass of your headphones. 

Just look for a “Bass Boost” or “Loudness” setting. Normally, you won’t find one in wired, passive headphones.

However, you will find it on headphones that actively alter your sound, including wireless and active noise-canceling headphones.

Why Do Headphones Have Bass Boost?

You may be wondering why some headphones need a bass boost . In general, most headphones will have a loudness setting that you can use to increase volume.

This of course will amplify all the frequencies including high, mid, and low frequencies. Bass boost allows you to drown out all the low frequencies (for example noisy city streets, there is lots of low-frequency background noise).

In other words, bass boost offsets the background noise so that you can get a flat-sounding result.

To learn more, check out our guide on how to bass boost a headphone . 

4. Use A USB DAC

If you are using a computer, sometimes the integrated soundboard will add elements to the sound. Sometimes this is in the form of adding bass boost for example.

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If you use a USB DAC, you will completely bypass the onboard sound card of your computer. You can then adjust the DAC settings as you may require. 

5. Check The Soundtrack

Sometimes it’s just this soundtrack that’s the issue. Certain kinds of music these days emphasize bass, so try another soundtrack from a different genre to see if that’s the issue.

6. Check the Music Player

The first step is to rule out the music player. You need to determine if the issue is the music player or the headphones.

Try auditioning the headphones on several different music players, stereos, PCs, gaming consoles or so on.

This way, you can determine if the boosted bass is due to the headphones or the music player.

Now if you find that the heavy bass is just coming from one player, this may indicate that the player itself is in some kind of “bass boost” mode. Here are some typical examples:

• Smartphones: Built-in smartphone speakers lack bass, but the devices normally have a software-based bass boost option for headphones. This is why “comes with the phone” earbuds have little to no bass response to speak of.
• Receivers and Amps: Receivers and amplifiers normally have a loudness setting.
• Windows PC or MAC: Windows and iOS operating systems tend to handle bass boost or equalization (EQ) as an operating system setting.

7. Is It Just You?

Sometimes the heavy bass you hear may just be your perception. In other words, the level of bass that sounds good to you may be much lower than for many people.

In this case, you will have a problem with most headphones that have even a low level of heavy bass. 

8. Headphone Design

The headphone design may also affect the level of bass you experience. For example, an over-the-ear headphone may seem to be more bass-heavy than regular headphones.

9. Heavy Bass Headphones Are For Noisy Environments

As we have said before, bass-heavy headphones will sound “flat” when listened to in noisy environments, like city trains, planes, buses, cars, and on city streets.

This is because these noisy areas will have a lot of low-frequency background and environmental noise. The bass heaviness of your headphones will override that and create a flat response. 

In this case, the bassy balance will no longer sound overdone. However, if you listen in a quiet room, then you will hear the heaviness of the bass. 

10. Is Your Problem Bass of Treble?

Some headphones have too much bass and some have too much treble. whichever you have an issue with, you can adjust the EQ settings to reduce the high or low frequencies. 

Is too much bass bad for headphones?

Can bass damage headphones? Once the bass is at an acceptable volume, it will not damage a headphone. However, at a very loud volume, heavy bass can easily damage headphones. However, bass-heavy headphones can easily handle low frequencies.

Why do people like bass-heavy headphones?

Many people like bass-heavy headphones because the bass is powerful and creates an immersive experience. It creates a powerful impact and a party-like experience. However, not everyone likes bass-heavy headphones . For example, this is why some people think Beats headphones are bad . 

Does Bass ruin your hearing? 

Bass will not harm your hearing if kept at normal levels. However, if the bass is too heavy, or too loud, it can damage the small diaphragm in your eardrum. Check out our guide on noise level charts to learn more. 

What does loud bass do to your body?

If you listen to extended bass at high levels, it may increase your blood pressure and blood sugar, while decreasing your body’s ability to fight off disease. This is a general issue with noise either from music or noise pollution. 

Can loud bass make you sick?

Listening to heavy bass for extended periods can cause ill effects on your body. For example, you may end up feeling nauseous. 

Is loud bass bad for you?

Listening to heavy bass for extended periods can hurt your body. It may result in a ruining effect in your ears and over time may cause a condition called tinnitus and can reach up to 70 decibels.

Can Bass ruin Airpods?

The Bass itself will not damage your AirPods but if the bass delivered to your AirPods is too high, this won’t be an issue because AirPods are wireless. It’s more of an issue for your ears than anything else.

What headphones have the best sound quality and bass?

There are quite a few headphones that can deliver excellent sound quality and good bass. Check them out:

Too Much Bass In Headphones Windows 10 or Windows 11

If there is too much bass in headphones on Windows 10 or Windows 11, you need to check the equalizer settings and reduce the bass levels.

How To Reduce Bass On Headphones Windows 10 or Windows 11

How to reduce bass on headphones in Windows 10 or Windows 11? You need to open the audio settings, go to equalizer settings, and reduce the bass levels.

How To Decrease Bass On Headphones Android

How to decrease bass on headphones Android? To decrease bass on headphones on Android, you need to open the sound settings and reduce the bass levels.

There are many reasons your headphone bass may be too high. This includes equalizer settings, the music player, or even the headset design. We hope one of these suggestions helped you to troubleshoot and fix your headphone bass issue. 

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Question / Help   Heavy bass boost on game audio

• Thread starter Matt Tolman
• Start date May 7, 2018

Matt Tolman

• May 7, 2018

Ive seen alot of these problems posted but none really solved. Recordings come out very bass boosted for some reason, its not the mic audio (or if it is i dont have enough bass in my voice to boost noticeably). Its all recordings too, pc, ps4, doesnt matter. Of course it sounds fine in the headset so i dont know where the problem is. I have my audio going out to speakers (stereo configuration in settings), speakers are logitech z533, i have sennheiser heaphones plugged into the speakers. Mic is blue yeti. Game audio is being fed to OBS as "desktop audio" (btw if anyone knows how to pull audio from a direct source like a game window or a capture card instead from desktop that would be great). Lemme know if anyone can offer help or if you need more info. Thanks.  

• May 8, 2018

Nevermind, solved the issue. If anyone sees this and has the same issue I'll detail my solution. I had 2 audio managers on my pc, realtek hd audio manager, and DTS audio. First checked realtek hd audio manager, it was on stereo like many people said to switch it to but there was another setting for performance enhancing which was set to extreme, i turned this down to the lower setting "performance" which helped a little. Found a forum post saying to downliad the latest realtek driver, did that. Following the installation i stumbled upon the DTS audio software , opened it, found settings turned on called " bass boost " and "surround sound", turned them both off , recordings are beautiful now. Changes i made to realtek may have been unnecessary but i figured id include them anyway.  

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• Solved the problem extreme bass boosted warning may hurt eardru

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i have a big problem someone help me all my clips are bass boosted to the max and i have no idea how to fix it and youtube doesnt help and ive seen nothing to fix the problem

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Game/Video recording is bass boosted (It's a bit of an annoying one)

• Thread starter Pakundo
• Start date Jul 9, 2017
• Tags audio quality bass recording Shadowplay Video
• Electronics & Wearables

• Jul 9, 2017
• Jul 10, 2017

Well, for the sake of anyone who might look into this in the future, the problem was in the "Headphone power" setting in the Realtek HD Audio Manager. Simply put, having it on Ultimate apparently acted as a bass boost, which in turn boosted the audio of recorded footage AGAIN. I originally changed the setting from the default of Balanced to Ultimate because I thought the headphones were lacking in certain frequencies, specifically the lower ones (bass). tl;dr found the problem, it was a solution to a different problem I had.  

SinxarKnights

Distinguished.

Pakundo : I originally changed the setting from the default of Balanced to Ultimate because I thought the headphones were lacking in certain frequencies, specifically the lower ones (bass). Yeah thats realtek for ya. Why not get a half decent sound card to go with your high end headphones?  

SinxarKnights : Pakundo : I originally changed the setting from the default of Balanced to Ultimate because I thought the headphones were lacking in certain frequencies, specifically the lower ones (bass). Yeah thats realtek for ya. Why not get a half decent sound card to go with your high end headphones? No need, nothing Virtual Audio Cable couldn't solve. All I needed to do was dedicate a virtual audio device as my default playback device, and have it set to be listened to by my headphones. Problem. Solved.  

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• Bass-Boost combined with DC-servo problem
• Thread starter Roushon
• Start date 2013-09-30 11:20 am

• 2013-09-30 11:20 am

Hi, I built a simple bass-boost circuit (using OPA627) sometime back based on Linkwitz page for my LM3886 amp and open baffle speaker. That solved the problem to a certain extent. Recently, I wanted to experiment with AD8620 the same bass-boost circuit. As 1/2 of the opamp was idle I converted it into a dc-servo circuit. There is another reason to it: I wanted to remove the capacitor on the signal line in the cd-player. The circuit is attached. The problem: The OPA627 bass-boost was alright. Now the AD8620 based bass-boost together with the dc-servo gives a strange booming sound even through the open baffle. It is hurting my ears. Also the amp is heating up more than it used to. Where could be the problem? Thanks in advance Roushon.  

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• 2013-09-30 12:07 pm

The amp heating more makes me think that you may have an oscillation issue. Power supply bypassing issues could cause a low frequency oscillation sometimes called "motorboating." Does the booming sound like an old outboard motor putting along? The AD8620 is a bit faster than the OPA627, requiring even more attention to power supply bypassing. At the speed of the AD8620 you probably want to use 100nf SMD caps right at the rail pins directly to the ground plane. A 100nf cap rail to rail may help, if you can't make a new board.  

• 2013-09-30 12:18 pm

It looks like your DC servo has WAY too much gain. I'd make R10 closer to 100K. Remember that you really only have to servo out millivolts for a DC servo. Because you have two poles in the feedback loop, coupled with more gain, you're probably pretty close to oscillation. It might not hurt to put a resistor in series with C8 and C9 to add a zero to the loop. Maybe 1 to 10K? Regardless, I strongly suggest trying a 100K for R10 as your first step. Edit: Bob's bypassing suggestions are great.  

• 2013-09-30 12:50 pm

Thanks BobEllis and FoMoCo for your replies. The sound is not motorboating, but smooth. There are 330uF+0.1uF within 1cm of the power pin of the IC. I will put another 0.1 on the pin and see. I had a suspicion that the dc servo is contributing to the bass-boost or oscillation. Will make the change. Regards Roushon.  

• 2013-10-01 1:56 am

Before I get down to implementing the suggestions, I am curious if size of the 1uF caps matter? The ones I used are pretty big 250v type, that made them connected a little far from the IC pins. Also I made a mistake in by previous post, the 330uF+0.1uF caps are about 2 cm away from the pins. Roushon  

• 2013-10-01 2:11 pm

Roushon said: Before I get down to implementing the suggestions, I am curious if size of the 1uF caps matter? The ones I used are pretty big 250v type, that made them connected a little far from the IC pins. Also I made a mistake in by previous post, the 330uF+0.1uF caps are about 2 cm away from the pins. Roushon Click to expand...

• 2013-10-01 2:27 pm

Thanks again. Actually I have heard myself the effect of capacitor on the signal path, that is the reason. Regards Roushon.  

• 2013-10-02 1:23 pm

Replaced R10 by 100K and added 0.1uF+100uF(Nichicon KZ) directly on the power pins and the booming seems to have gone. Will check with some more music...  

• 2013-10-02 4:53 pm

Problem solved! Thanks again a lot. The problem is solved. No booming. Smooth raised bass.... Regards Roushon.  

• 2013-10-28 11:49 am

Huh! It needed a (minor) accident to realize that the DC-servo in fact not working after I changed R10 to 100K. Should have had checked. Now I have to start reducing the value of R10 till the point it works. Roushon.  

• 2013-10-31 11:58 am

Experimented! Well, I did some experiment. With R10=100K, I placed a 1.5 v battery at the input of the circuit and checked the output was about 4v. Now slowly decreasing the value of R10, I had to come down to 10K to make the output 0v to 0.02v. Have not yet heard the sound quality with R10=10K as the whole amp is disintegrated for up gradation. Any guess if the 10K value would be alright, I would know it only after I re-assemble the amp. Hope I am not talking to myself. Thanks and regards Roushon.  

• 2013-11-03 3:03 pm

It might be alright. But you don't know how much the servo might affect the sound at higher frequencies, where you want it to have no effect. I would simulate it in LT-spice, to find out more about its behavior.  

• 2013-12-23 5:50 am

Thanks Gootee and sorry for the late response. But the problem does not seem to end for me. Something new popped up yesterday. Realized that the regulator LM337 was not satisfying the minimum load requirement and the output was dropping to -10.3v from -11.3v, I added an 1K resistor from output to ground (This was suggested to me in another thread) and the problem was solved, the output stabilized at -11.3v. Now, before making this change with PS, the bass boost_dc-servo was working fantastic (recall in the posted circuit in this thread I changed 1K to 10K). But after the negative voltage stabilized a very strange phenomena taking place. After I power ON the amp there is about 2 to 3v dc output from this circuit on both the channels which starts to go down to 0v and it takes such a long time that even with the speaker-on-delay circuit I can not avoid the Plop sound. This is happening even without any input source. And after this the amp work fine. I feel the dc-servo is working fine, but why the sudden burst of dc output, where from it is coming? Have both the ICs damaged due to unstable -vs supply? If that is true then how come it was working fine when the supply was not corrected? Please some one shed some light. Regards Roushon.  

• 2013-12-23 11:09 am

Why suddenly is this Plop Plop?  

• 2013-12-23 1:50 pm

I have suggested that an amplifier fitted with a DC servo should have zeroed output offset at the moment of start up. The servo has nothing to do initially. As the amplifier warms up the output offset drifts fairly slowly towards the warmed up offset. The servo can cancel this slow drift. You can help this by using a speaker isolating relay (mechanical or solid state) and the servo will already have stabilised and the amp will have stabilised and the servo has time to make the initial SMALL correction for the almost cold input & output stages before the speaker connects, after a 3 to 10second delay. Do ensure the fully warmed up (or even very hot) offset is within the capability of the servo. The DC servo has a limit beyond which it cannot cancel any more and it must not be asked to operate close to that limit when signal is being passed.  

• 2013-12-24 6:29 am

AndrewT said: I have suggested that an amplifier fitted with a DC servo should have zeroed output offset at the moment of start up. The servo has nothing to do initially. As the amplifier warms up the output offset drifts fairly slowly towards the warmed up offset. The servo can cancel this slow drift. You can help this by using a speaker isolating relay (mechanical or solid state) and the servo will already have stabilised and the amp will have stabilised and the servo has time to make the initial SMALL correction for the almost cold input & output stages before the speaker connects, after a 3 to 10second delay. Do ensure the fully warmed up (or even very hot) offset is within the capability of the servo. The DC servo has a limit beyond which it cannot cancel any more and it must not be asked to operate close to that limit when signal is being passed. Click to expand...

• 2013-12-24 4:27 pm

Just checked, the speaker delay is about 9 seconds and the `offset getting close to zero' taking about 19 seconds. Is it unusual to take 19 seconds for the offset to become null? Regards Roushon.  

• 2013-12-24 5:01 pm

Someone suggested that the auto bias amp has too much gain. It is very possible that the feed-back cap still has some charge on it from a previous turn-off and when turning on a large off-set is generated by the bias amp. Maybe you should consider placing a bleed resistor across your cap to discharge it.  

• 2013-12-26 6:52 am

Nico Ras said: Someone suggested that the auto bias amp has too much gain. It is very possible that the feed-back cap still has some charge on it from a previous turn-off and when turning on a large off-set is generated by the bias amp. Maybe you should consider placing a bleed resistor across your cap to discharge it. Click to expand...